Sometimes the best travel memories come from the places we never planned to visit.
We’re fans of Virgin Voyages for several reasons — no kids, great food, fun vibe. One thing we’ve learned with Virgin: they occasionally choose less popular ports. That can mean fewer crowds… but it also means you’re not always dropped somewhere touristy.
Such was the case when the itinerary said “Bordeaux.” Where we actually docked: Le Verdon-sur-Mer, which is… well… Bordeaux-adjacent. Like when a hotel says it’s “Disney” but you’re really in Kissimmee.
Why We Were There
Most of the cruise excursions involved:
- a 2-hour bus ride to Bordeaux
- one winery + lunch
- then a 2-hour bus ride back
We’re not fans of the “4 hours on a bus for a 90-minute activity” kind of excursion, so we held off booking. And then everything sold out. This left us with no Bordeaux tour, no winery, and no plan.
How We Ended Up in Soulac-sur-Mer
So, I did something I’d never done before: I asked ChatGPT for recommendations on what to do near the port.
There were wineries closer than Bordeaux, but we’d have to arrange our own transportation, which didn’t feel relaxing. Then Virgin posted an update the night before: “Complimentary shuttle buses to Soulac-sur-Mer will run throughout the day.” Free transportation + unexpected town = decision made.
First Stop: The Basilica
Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Fin-des-Terres — Soulac’s stone landmark on a moody, rainy morning.
The weather was gray and drizzly — that “it could pour any minute” kind of sky. The shuttle dropped us right in front of Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Fin-des-Terres, a UNESCO-listed basilica that was once buried by sand before being excavated in the 1800s.
Inside: heavy stone arches, worn columns, and quietly beautiful stained glass.
Walking Toward the Beach
From the basilica, we followed the main street toward the water. The first thing I noticed: we were absolutely in France. In Amsterdam and Belgium, we heard plenty of English. Here? French. Everywhere. Spoken fast. My French is… rusty.
We stopped in stores along the way — cheeses, pastries, seafood, and fresh breads. Everything made us wish we lived near a daily market.
The Beach (Yes… France Has Beaches)
#soulac on the Bay of Biscay. Not a beach day — still worth the photo.
We reached the wide, sandy beach overlooking the Atlantic. Wind, rain, cold — definitely not a beach day — but as a Floridian, “French beach town on the Atlantic” still felt surreal, so we grabbed a quick photo and ducked into a café to warm up with a glass of wine.
Hydration, French style: a glass of wine while the rain passed.
Hydration, French style: a of wine while the rain passed
The Covered Market (Best Surprise of the Day)
On our walk back to the shuttle, we stumbled into the covered market. If the little shops earlier were appetizers, this was the main course.
Soulac’s lively covered market — stalls as far as you can see.
Produce that makes you wish your kitchen was five minutes away.
Seafood for days — including the oysters this coast is known for.
Rows of stalls sold pastries, olives and tapenades, sausages, pâtés and terrines, giant wheels of cheese, fresh produce, and seafood. We couldn’t bring meats or cheeses back on the ship, but we could bring wine — so we picked up a couple of bottles to take home.
One Last Stop: Crêpes (Because… France)
Before the shuttle, we made one last, very important stop: a crêpe stand. I’ve had a soft spot for street crêpes ever since our first trip to Paris, so I made our friends try one. The only hard decision was choosing between powdered sugar and Nutella. (There is no wrong answer.)
Final Thoughts
I hadn’t heard of Soulac-sur-Mer until the day before we visited. It wasn’t the day we planned, the port we expected, or even a backup plan — but seeing a smaller French town on a quiet weekday, without crowds or tour buses, was its own kind of perfect. While I’m sure the vibe is very different on a sunny summer weekend, I loved seeing it like this.
Most cruise passengers went to Bordeaux. We went to Soulac-sur-Mer. And I’m glad everything else was sold out.
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